Saparua is the largest and most populous of the Lease Islands just east of Ambon, the capital of Maluku province.
With its friendly population (mostly Christian), pretty villages, plentiful historical relics, good beaches and fine coral reefs, it was also the most popular island for a quick escape from Ambon before tourism in Maluku collapsed in 1999.
It is now rapidly becoming more visited again, and its once varied and pleasant beachside accommodation options and dive-shops are reopening, too.

From Saparua you could also visit the smaller and more remote neighbouring island of Nusalaut - well worth considering if you have an extra 2 days' time or so!

Haria

Most visitors arrive in Saparua at the jetty in Haria village.
Just off the road near the jetty there is a huge, semi-traditional baileu village hall, and history buffs could also visit the family home of anti-colonial hero Thomas Mattulessy (alias Pattimura), where a small museum exhibits his memorabilia like what are said to have been his clothes, and books written about him.

Kota Saparua

The island's sleepy capital is a good base for short visits.
It has three accommodation options, a fine beach, a fort, a busy market, and lots of colonial buildings.
It is also the centre for transport around the island.

Duurstede Fort

This large, 17th century Dutch fort stands on the sea-side in Kota Saparua. It has been heavily restored, making it look a bit like it has been built of concrete just a few years ago.
Though it has lost its originality, its location remains beautiful, right next to the beach.
If it is locked, you will need to find a care-taker to let you in - ask at the nearby Penginapan Duurstede first.

The Museum

Just next to the fort stands a huge modern building housing a large number of dioramas and other exhibits depicting Saparua's role in the struggle against Dutch colonialism.
At my last visit, this was rather neglected with the lights not working, but as the caretakers for the fort also hold the keys to this museum, it's worth a quick look anyway.
And the explanations are posted in readable English as well! ;-)

The Town Beach

Saparua is unique in having a gorgeous stretch of fine, white sand right in front of town, next to the fort. There is accommodation on the beach, but it's freely accessible to all.
Unfortunately when the winds blow from the South, quite a lot of trash gets washed up here, but in other seasons it is totally clean and idyllic.

The Market

Kota Saparua has a daily market in the town centre, but it gets a whole lot busier on Tuesdays and Saturdays when people come here from all over the island, as well as from neighbouring Nusalaut and Haruku.
This is a good example of a traditional Malukan market, with mostly typical local products/foodstuff sold - like these basketfuls of raw sago.

The Town Baileu

Near the school in the centre of the town stands the island's second most traditional baileu.
It is quite small, has concrete bases and nails holding it together, but overall it still looks very traditional and even has its own little megalithic stone altar fronting it.
Worth a quick look.

Sirisori Islam

One of the two remaining Muslim villages on Saparua, Sirisori Islam is clearly visible from Kota Saparua just across the bay, down the southeastern peninsula.
It remains a stronghold of local traditions, and here you can still hear the native Saparuan language that is no longer spoken in the Christian villages.
Check if their long korakora canoe is in its shed - they won several races with it.
The local Raja's colonial-style home is also worth a look.

Ouw

This village in the south-eastern corner of the island is Saparua's most interesting, offering a number of attractions: a small fort, pottery-making, and two fine beaches (a few kms away).
It also used to have accomodation on one of the beaches but that has closed a few years ago - with some luck, it may reopen one day.

The Pottery-makers

Ouw is the only village in the Lease Islands that has traditionally produced pottery for local use. These are sold as far away as the markets of Ambon.
Due to the island's popularity with tourists, several younger craftspeople have also received training in Bali to produce more ornate pieces for tourists. These are now even exported to Holland, where the nostalgic Dutch-Moluccan community, many of whom come from Saparua, provides a ready market for them!

Ouw's Fort

The ruins of this small, derelict fort stand behind Ouw's small market.
It is totally unrestored and local family has actually built a small home within the walls.
Nevertheless, it is worth a quick look exactly for its overgrown, time-worn state.

Nolloth's Old Church

Up in Saparua's NE corner, Nolloth is another village well worth visiting.
It is dominated by a fine, massive colonial-era church with thick walls.
Until 2007 or so it also had a uniquely preserved sago-thatch roof - which has now sadly been replaced by the more common tin! :-(

The Nolloth Baileu

Perhaps even more interesting is however Saparua's finest surviving example of a traditional baileu village hall standing by the road-side. It's the only one on the island constructed without nails!
Near this baileu are some old megaliths.
Ask for the locals' permission before poking around and taking pictures - apparently some impolite tourists have had a negative effect on their attitudes here.

Inside the Baileu

If you inspect the building closely, you can see that it was constructed entirely without nails. Everything was tied together with traditional methods.
Quite amazing in an otherwise very modern, Christian village!

The West Coast Beach

What locals claim is the finest, longest beach on the island stretches along its western coast between the villages of Kulur and Porto.
It is rather remote and not easy to get to, but you may enjoy great views of it from the boats from Tulehu.

Haria Perak Beach

Located at the end of a truly awful road, this is one of Saparua's most secluded and finest beaches, with the added attraction of views of Molana Island.
A few dedicated locals visit it on week-ends, otherwise it is totally deserted.
In the past it had a few budget accommodation options, one of which may still be able to accommodate you - see my accomodation tips.

Pulau Molana

This small, hilly, uninhabited island off Saparua's south-western tip is known for its excellent dive-spots, and has the finest white sand beach anywhere in the Lease Islands.
Incredibly, it also has a few newly opened bungalows where those looking for total seclusion could stay - see my accommodation listing.

Diving & Snorkelling

Saparua has several good dive-spots, and it also has a dive resort in the village of Paperu - see my accommodation listing for more info on that.
Another dive resort in Mahu village may reopen eventually.
The losmen on the beach near Ouw village also had diving equipment which you may still be able to use - ask in Ouw.
Otherwise, resort to snorkelling - still very nice, and should you have forgotten to bring your own gear, you can rent it from the losmen in town!

Pottery

The village of Ouw is the pottery-making centre of Central Maluku.
Most pottery is functional, rustic, and made for local use, but this is the only village in Maluku where locals are used to making more ornate pieces for tourists!
You can find some Balinese-influenced pieces and maybe even figurines, and if you have a few days to wait, you can also order pieces made to your taste.

By Sea

The most common way of getting to Saparua is by boat from Ambon.
A daily wooden boat (around noon) and usually several speedboats (starting early morning)leave from Tulehu on on the east coast of Ambon's Leihitu peninsula.
In Saparua they usually go to Haria, just a few kms west of Kota Saparua.
A large, slower car-passenger ferry also operates from Tulehu to the port near Kulur in remote NW Saparua, and a few villages in NE Saparua, like Itawaka or Mahu also have direct speedboats to/from Tulehu.
To leave Saparua, you should aim to be in Haria by 6.30 am to catch the wooden boat.
There are also speedboats to Seram (near Masohi) every morning from Mahu village, and on market days (Wed & Sat) there are several boats to Nusalaut.
To Haruku you may well have to charter.

By Road

Saparua has a good network of roads connecting all villages to Saparua town in the island's centre.
Bemos serve most villages, and of course there are ojeks, too.

Penginapan Duurstede

This place has a great location right on the beach in Kota Saparua.
It is also the cheapest place on the island!
Why? Well, it has no air-con, just fan, and suffers from periodical water shortages.
It's still the best budget bet if a quiet beachside location matters more than comforts to you!

Penginapan Lease Indah

This place right in the centre of Kota Saparua gets most of the visitors, tourists and locals doing business in town alike.
It offers a range of rooms in a somewhat neglected garden.
Note that it stands on a dirty stretch of the coastline though, so if being on the beach is what you want, keep looking elsewhere...

Penginapan Perdana

The owner of the Lease Indah has opened this new, more upmarket place next door to his old place in 2008.
It's a bit more plush and a lot more fresh, but with all rooms inside a single building and no beach whatsoever, it is more likely to appeal to visiting businessmen or government officials than to tourists.
Still, if you want comforts and a central location, you might like it.

Molana Beach Bungalows

You couldn't get any more secluded than this in the Lease Islands!
The bungalows on the gorgeous, uninhabited island of Molana were renovated and reopened for business in March 2008.
As they have yet to appear in the guidebooks, no tourists seem to know about them, so you could most likely have the whole island to yourselves...
All this comes at a price, of course.
Rooms are not too expensive, priced at 100.000 inside the main building, 200.000 for a separate bungalow, both options sleeping two people.
Meals however cost 50.000/person for a lunch or dinner, which is not cheap, but then remember that all food and water, as well as the staff to cook it (and look after you) have to be ferried over to the island from Haria on Saparua itself!
You'll also have to pay for a transfer by speedboat, costing ca. 200.000.
If you aren't on a rock-bottom budget, and especially if there are several of you, this may well be worth it though!
Also, if you stay more than just 2-3 days, there may be room for some negotiation... ;-)
Don't just show up - talk to the owner, Pak Agust Kaya who lives in Haria village, first!
His phone number is on the link below, as is a contact email that may be less reliable.

www.molanaisland.com

Itawaka Lodge

Another upmarket place was getting close to being opened on an isolated beach near Itawaka village in NE Saparua.
Locals claimed it will be open to all, info from elsewhere was that it may specialize in catering to those into deep-sea fishing.
If interested, just ask when you get to Saparua!

Paperu Resort and Spa

Saparua's luxury option, this Swiss-owned place actually opened when I checked it out in late 2007.
It has a number of large, comfortable bungalows in spacious grounds a few kms from Kota Saparua.
Its main target clientine are divers, but if you can afford its rates, you could stay without diving, too.
As the landscaping was not yet complete when I visited, the owners asked me not to take photos of the grounds other than the beach, so for more pics and info see their website linked below.

http://capepaperu.com/english/english.htm

Relics of the Past

Back in the 90es when tourism in Saparua was booming, several backpackers' bungalows opened on remoter beaches around the island, including no fewer than three on the isolated Haria Perak beach.
Most of those have now closed and rotten away, but this one was still said to open up for the occasional guest and renovating it has reportedly started in 2008.
By 2009, one place has reportedly reopened on Haria Perak - check it out. It may well be worth it just for the location!
Another place that was once popular, is now derelict, but said to be slated for renovation and reopening is the Puti Lessi Indah Cottages near Kulur in Saparua's remote NW. It has a great jungly location and is more accessible than Haria Perak, being close to the sealed road to Kulur. Again, you'd have to ask locally to see if it's operating again - which I definitely wouldn't expect before mid-2009 at the earliest.

Limited Choice

There are a few simple warungs near the market in the centre of Saparua town.
They serve the usual rice and fish or chicken dishes.
The best variety of more typically Malukan food, including traditional sweets, is to be found at the town's market on Tuesdays and Saturdays.