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Maluku Travel Information - Bacan Islands |
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| Bacan: North Maluku's Third Historic Sultanate |
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Bacan is a large, mountainous island west of southern Halmahera.
It is home to one of the four historic sultanates in North Maluku - some think the one here was once more important than the more famous Ternate and Tidore.
The local capital Labuha has some sights connected with the sultanate and the colonial era, while away from there, Bacan has some OK beaches and forested mountains which include Gunung Sibela, North Maluku's highest peak.
It is also famous for the Black Macaques, the only monkeys in Maluku, which were introduced here from North Sulawesi.
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The Sultan's Residence
The original palace of Bacan's sultan, standing in the centre of the island's capital Labuha, was destroyed during World War II.
He has moved to this colonial-style home, which is not open to the public.
A new, large palace building is now under construction right behind.
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The Sultan's Mosque
Down the street behind the residence, the original royal mosque has been completely rebuilt a few years ago, altering much of the original design.
It is still worth a look.
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Barnewald Fort
This small, crumbling fort, originally built by the Portuguese, is probably the most interesting sight in Labuha.
Although mostly unrestored, it is still in good enough condition to climb upstairs once inside.
There is no entrance fee, and it is all open although fenced around.
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Hot Springs
South of Labuha, there are VERY low-key hot springs in two locations.
The one at Kupal village are right at the seaside, and in fact are submerged in the sea except during low-tide.
A few kilometres further north there is another spring a few hundred metres inland from the road.
That one is more obvious, but the pond it feeds now is rather muddy and overgrown.
Getting to it requires a bit of a hike, guided by local kids!
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Forests
Bacan is surprisingly well-forested, and unlike on most other islands in Maluku, the forests here extend right down near the shores and main roads.
This makes them relatively easily accessible, though you must look for trails, most of which are formed and used by illegal loggers.
Of course, hiring a local guide could make things a lot easier!
Watch out for Bacan's famous monkeys - introduced black macaques from North Sulawesi.
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Pulau Kasiruta
Kasiruta is the second largest island in the Bacan archipelago, and once hosted the capital of the Sultanate of Bacan before it moved to Labuha. It is also where the locally famous "Batu Bacan" gemstones come from.
Today, the island receives little attention from foreigners, but is one of my favourites in Maluku.
Despite some logging, it retains much virgin forest due to its rugged, hilly topography, and there are splendid, unspoilt beaches on its coast. Its population is mostly Galelarese, with the rest being Makianese. It has extensive clove-plantations, which make the villages here relatively prosperous.
Kasiruta also has great, unspoilt beaches, sometimes right in front of villages like this one. The snorkelling was also quite good, despite some damage from dynamite fishing.
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Dendang Dance
Bacan has no truly native population, and has been settled by people from neighbouring regions, especially by Tobelorese, Galelarese and Makianese, but also from Sulawesi.
However, over the centuries a distinct Bacanese culture and even language (a very distinct dialect of Malay) has evolved around the Kraton (palace) in Labuha.
You will have to be quite lucky to come across obvious manifestations of this Bacanese culture, but I have seen the Bacanese Kraton's sacred Dendang dance performed for the sultan of Ternate during his birthday celebrations. It is a slow and graceful dance with betelnut containers accompanied by traditional music and singing.
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By Air
In early 2010, Lion has taken over serving the route from Ternate to Labuha from Merpati - it remains to be seen how long this will last.
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By Sea
There are several boats daily from Ternate to Babang, some of which continue to the Obi Islands. Speedboats also come here from Ternate via Saketa in southern Halmahera.
There are also boats that come to the north-western coast of Bacan from Ternate via the Kayoa Islands and Kasiruta.
There are also local boats from Labuha to other islands in the Bacan group.
Longboats are the main way of getting to roadless villages scattered around the coasts of Bacan.
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By Road
Bacan's road system is limited to the area around Labuha, with the most important road being the one connecting Labuha to the port of Babang. Bemos and ojeks serve these roads.
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Limited Selection
There are a few decent, but rather overpriced hotels in Labuha, and a few much more basic yet better value penginapans in the port town of Babang.
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Basic Fare
There is the usual choice of cheap, basic warungs in Labuha and Babang.
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