Mountainous, rugged Banda Besar is by far the largest island in the Bandas, and the main location of nutmeg plantations. It has about a dozen villages and several historical attractions, but virtually no tourist accommodation. As such it remains very quiet, especially the far side of the island looking out to Hatta and the open sea. Nevertheless, it is well worth at least a day-trip from Bandaneira, and keen hikers or those looking for isolated beaches with great reefs just off the shore could actually spend days exploring it.

Lonthoir

In the north-west corner of the island, the village of Lonthoir is home to most of the island's historical sights and is the popular destination for day-trippers.
It is spectacularly located sprawling up the steep hillside overlooking Gunung Api, with a flight of stairs being its main throughfare.

The Old Mosque

Close to the start of the stairs at the bottom of the village, it is worth taking a look at Lonthoir's beautiful old mosque, one of the finest in the Bandas.

Perigi Kramat

This historic, old well, still one of the main sources of water for the villagers, is considered holy. It is reached by turning right about halfway up the stairs leading to the top.

Perkenier's Residence

The flight of stairs up the hill ends at this old Dutch residence, now used as a village meeting hall. As such there is nothing of interest inside, but is impressive enough from the outside.

Benteng Hollandia

Turn left in front of the old residence and follow the ridge-road for about a hundred meters.
Here a path between houses leads to this old Dutch fort, the island's main attraction.
It is unrestored but still impressive enough, and has a gorgeous location looking over the sea to Gunung Api and Bandaneira.

Nutmeg Plantations

There are plenty of these throughout the island, the biggest one sprawling right along the middle of the north coast.
If you think that it was these plantations that lured here sailors from across the world in Europe one day, you might as well decide they are worth a quick look.

Wair

This village is the south coast's most tempting destination.
It is home to one of the island's finest old mosques and very friendly locals.
Getting here can be half the fun, as from Selamon village on the north coast only a narrow trail leads here through woods and nutmeg plantations.
An ideal way would be catching a boat here from Bandaneira and walking back to the north coast before catching another boat to town.
This would make a fine day-trip.

Benteng Concordia

The island's second finest fort is Wair's main attraction.
It stands right over the coast, and is unrestored but still in decent condition.

Inside the Fort

Benteng Concordia's main gateway is blocked, and to get inside you have to climb up an overgrown trail up the wall to its right.
Once up on the top, you will find some old cannons lying around - judging by the fact that these were completely covered in grass grown right over them, probably no one else had bothered entering for at least a year.

Beaches

There are several fine beaches around the island, mostly in isolated coves on the south coast. As such, boats are the easiest way to reach them.
As usual in Banda, just by swimming in from the shore you can reach stunning reefs teeming with fish.

Transport from Bandaneira

Various boats travel back and forth between Bandaneira and the north coast villages of Banda Besar throughout the day. If you want to charter one, the trip is still very cheap, costing around 25.000 Rp one way in 2006.
Boats to the isolated south coast of the island are far less frequent.

Getting Around

There is a road of sorts connecting villages on the north coast, and you can take an ojek (motorcycle taxi) along its whole length. Otherwise, it is a pleasant walk.
The isolated south coast villages can only be reached by rugged walking tracks or by chartered boats.

Homestay Leiden

The first homestay on the island, seemingly mainly aimed at Dutch visitors but welcoming anyone, is a yellow-coloured family home to the left of the start of the stairs up Lonthoir. Apart from overnight accommodation, it offers drinks and meals to day-trippers.