Maluku Travel Information - Loloda |
Loloda: Halmahera's Most Rugged Coastline |
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Loloda is the region covering the western side of the northern tip of Halmahera. The coastline here is very rugged, with sometimes near vertical cliffs rising out of the sea.
The mostly Christian population of the mainland mostly lives in isolated villages set on scenic bays.
Kedi, the regional capital of southern Loloda which belongs to West Halmahera Regency, is in the south, near the border with Ibu.
North Loloda, belonging to North Halmahera Regency, also includes a cluster of largish islands off its northern coastline. The population of these very pretty islands, the largest of which are Doi and Dagasuli, is mostly Muslim.
The villages along the northernmost section of the coast are ethnically Galelarese, and in general the culture and language of Loloda is quite close to that of neighbouring Galela.
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Posiposi Beach
The village of Posiposi on the northernmost section of mainland Loloda has one of the longest fine beaches anywhere in Halmahera.
It is curving around a bay, backed by scenic hills and coconut palms.
The sea here can get rough, but such is the shape and length of this beach that parts of it can be calm even when other areas are pounded by waves.
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The Posiposi Waterfalls
Towards the southern end of Posiposi Beach, a pair of waterfalls plunges into a pool near the sea.
A great spot for some freshwater bathing experience, for a change!
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Pulau Doi
The main island of the Loloda Islands district, Doi has some of the fiest beaches in the archipelago. Its main village Dana may not be very attractive, but has the most frequent boat connections and makes a good base for exploring.
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Pulau Dagasuli
The second largest island of the group, Dagasuli is slightly less readily accessible, but it also has a very fine, long, wide white-sand beach along its northern coast.
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Pulau Takara
The smaller, one-village island of Takara lies between Doi and Dagasuli.
As you might guess, it offers still more white sand beaches and good reefs.
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Pulau Tobotobo
Tobotobo is the southernmost island in the group.
It has an interesting village with many houses built on stilts over the water, as well as a large, shallow lagoon fringed by coral reefs.
Dugongs are said to make an occasional appearence here.
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The Bats of Tobotobo
Tobotobo's uninhabited northern coastline, and the small islands nearby, are home to a large colony of fruit-bats. They roost here during the day and fly over to Halmahera to feed at night.
As they are hunted by the locals, the colony does move from one location to the other every now and then, but can still be found in roughly the same area.
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Pasir Putih
This white-sand beach along the northernmost section of the Loloda mainland once had a village but is now deserted. There was good surf here when I visited.
It was also the finest beach I've seen along the mainland coastline of Loloda.
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Igo
Igo is the last village along Loloda's northernmost stretch of coast, just before rounding Tanjung Jere to enter the Galela region.
This large and isolated village is very friendly, and the surrounding area has some scenic walks.
More interestingly, I have seen the only surviving example of traditional octagonal North Halmahera houses here outside the ethnically Sahu region in West Halmahera. It was a small "rumah kebun" in the hills behind the village, which itself is as modern as any.
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Surfing!
I have seen great-looking waves in two separate areas in Loloda!
One was around Pasir Putih beach in the far north. There were good waves both off the beach itself, and a little to the west in front of the nearby village, where local kids were actually surfing them on home-made boards, apparently inspired by some visiting surfers!
The other, much more remote point was north of Pulau Toboto. The waves here were quite far off the coast so you'd need a boat to reach them. They did look better (more dangerous?) though!
Note that waves are likely to be seasonal - I saw them in early January.
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By Sea
Loloda has no roads yet (though they are on the planning boards) so all transport to and around the district is by boat.
Boats up the mainland coast travel from Bastiong harbour in Ternate, and they may or may not stop at other districts of the West Halmahera coast like Jailolo or Ibu.
North Loloda, including the islands, can also be reached by regular boats from Tobelo. These tend to be small - see the photo.
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None!
There is no formal accommodation in Loloda.
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