Maluku Travel Information - Run

Run: The Island Traded for Manhattan

The westernmost island in the Banda group, Run is most notable for one of the greatest deals in history, when in 1667 this last still-British-held island was handed over to the Dutch in return for the then still-Dutch-held Manhattan off New York. The Dutch must have had some regrets later, as just Run has little to distinguish it from other remote islands in Maluku, and once it was no longer needed to maintain the Dutch monopoly over Banda's nutmeg, it has faded into total obscurity. Today, though its single village has a fairly large population and an impressive flottilla of boats by Banda standards, it must be the least visited inhabited island in the archipelago by tourists, as it lacks the fine beaches of Ai or Hatta. Still, it is a scenic, hilly island, and well-worth a day-trip!

Attractions Off the Track Getting There Accommodation
Main Attractions

Run Village

The single village of Run is a sprawling settlement of fairly well-built houses stretching up the hillside overlooking a bay to the west. Unlike in Bandaneira or Ai, there are no colonial relics or other historical sights in the village itself, but its streets make for good wandering and there are fine views at several spots.

Lokong Beach

When the winds are blowing from the West, boats may not be able to reach the "harbour" in front of the village, and will have to drop anchor at this secluded beach off the island's eastern coast. The short and somewhat rocky beach is nothing special by Malukan standards, but there is some decent snorkeling to be had here.

Pulau Neilaka

Probably Run's main attraction to visitors is the tiny islet of Neilaka off to its eastern end. While not much different from hundreds of such specks of sand found throughout Maluku, in the volcanic Bandas Neilaka's sandy beaches are an attraction! To spice them up a little bit, it also has a sandbar stretching back towards Ai and Gunung Api. There is some good snorkeling at the edge of the flat reef surounding Neilaka, with several large Napoleon Wrasses. The now bushy center of the islet was allegedly once the site of an English fort, but today all you will find there is some coral rubble and a few Muslim graves.

Off the Beaten Track

The "Iron House"

When asked about whether there was anything left of Run's British fort, the locals answered that yes, there was a fort on the island - and built of iron! I had to check this "iron fort" out, and of course it turned out to be something else, probably a former Dutch plantation site, standing in the hills over the village. Well, it is something to aim for if you feel like a hike... Ask for "Rumah Besi" (Iron House) as it is most commonly known locally.

Getting There and Around
When the weather allows, boats travel from Run village to Bandaneira every morning, returning around midday. In the westerly winds' season, they often can't reach or leave Run's exposed main harbour and will moor at Lokong beach to the east, a good half hour's hike or so across the island's hilly interior. Never mind, the hike is a fine one and almost an attraction in itself, taking you past typical Malukan spice and cassave gardens.
Accommodation
Run now has 2 homestays.