Indonesia's unwilling easternmost region, Papua occupies the western half of New Guinea, the World's second largest island. Along with its independent eastern neighbour Papua New Guinea, Papua is home to an incredible diversity of flora, fauna and cultures. The rugged terrain and the relatively late coming of the outside world to the island has helped to preserve the unique biological and cultural diversity here better than probably anywhere else in the tropics, though for better or worse, change is accelerating.
Papua only became part of Indonesia in 1969, after a highly controversial 'popular consultation', that was nevertheless endorsed by the UN. Since then the island has seen drastic changes: hundreds of thousands of Javanese transmigrants have been settled here, logging companies have been pushing ever deeper into the interior, mining interests have been surveying the land, and Indonesian culture has been agressively propagated among the native Papuans. Unsurprisingly, many are unhappy about this state of affairs, and many dream of independence. There has been a low-key guerrilla movement operating in the interior and along the PNG border ever since the Indonesian takeover, and demonstrations or ethnic violence do hit even the coastal cities from time to time.
The above is probably the main reason why tourism in Papua has never really kicked off, despite the outstanding attractions. Many foreign governments warn their citizens against travel to this province, and once here, a travel permit is required to visit the interior. High prices are another factor that deter many of the more adventurous travellers. Most of those few who do visit, only get to the area around the province's capital Jayapura, and the readily accessible Baliem Valley in the central highlands, which is the main drawing card of Papua. Exploring the rest of this vast region will require plenty of time, often lots of cash, and preferably a knowledge of the Indonesian language. Those who possess all these and decide to devote enough time to getting off the beaten track will probably be rewarded with the adventure of a lifetime.
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