Maluku Travel Information - East of Seram |
East of Seram: From Geser to Teur |
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A scattering of tiny, mainly Muslim islands stretching from the eastern tip of Seram towards the Keis form Central Maluku's most remote and least accessible corner. None of these islands has played a significant role in history, none have any outstanding attractions, and they offer almost no facilities to visitors whatsoever. To tour them you will need lots of time, a knowledge of Indonesian, and a high tolerance of filthy, overcrowded Perintis ships.
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Geser
Geser is a tiny atoll island at the eastern tip of Seram. It is nevertheless an important, historic trade centre of the region. It is a very quaint place with an old-fashioned feel to the town, and decent beaches right on the atoll, however it is best used as a base for exploring the neighbouring Seram Laut islands and eastern Seram itself.
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Seram Laut Islands
The Seram Laut Islands just east of Geser are a bit larger and hillier than the atoll with which they share the same language and culture. They are also inhabited, but less crowded, and have some very beautiful beaches.
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Gorom Islands
Southeast of Geser and Seram Laut, the three main islands of the Gorom archipelago share the same language and culture with them - all Muslims here, too. This is another area to find fine beaches well off the beaten track. The main island, at least around its main settlement, was somewhat underwhelming though, so you must be prepared to go a bit further than that. Its only attraction was an unusual army monument, and a surprisingly good selection of shops for these remote parts.
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Watubela Islands
On the border of Central and Southeast Maluku, the remote Watubelas, consisting of inhabited Kesui, Teur and Watubela islands and a few smaller uninhabited ones, hit the world headlines during the years of the conflict. Today they are as peaceful and quiet as any in Maluku.
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By sea
Apart from a small Pelni ship that is scheduled to stop at Geser between Ambon and East Seram fortnightly, only Perintis ships call at these islands (well, at some of them!) between Ambon and the Keis or Papua As usual, they run on unpredictable schedules and are crowded and filthy. Once you have been dropped at a tiny port here, be prepared to have to wait for a long time for another ship to come by. Getting from one island to another is a matter of luck or money - you may manage to share a ride with locals heading your way, or you may have to charter your own boat.
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By road
None of these islands have any roads worth speaking of.
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The only formal place to stay is a very simple losmen in Geser. |
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