The district of Ibu is where the road up north in West Halmahera ends. It feels quite distant from Jailolo and Sahu to the south, separated from them by a mountain ridge. It also decided to cut itself off from evil influences of the outside world by opting not to allow commercial accommodation to open even in its district capital Tengutesungi - it was thought that such a place would attract prostitution!
Nevertheless, visitors sensitive to local cultural norms will find Ibu a welcoming and interesting region to visit. The district includes two active volcanoes, Gunung Ibu and Gunung Gamkonora, with the latter being the highest mountain in Halmahera. A string of villages stretches into the interior along a scenic valley, opening up great hiking possibilities.

Ibu is also one of the ethnically most diverse parts of Halmahera, with four major ethnic groups native to the district.
The Muslim Ibunese ethnic group lives around Tengutesungi and has in the past century switched from its language to Ternatese.
Not so the Muslim Gamkonorans, who live in four villages along the coast, and despite Ternatese cultural influence still speak their own language.
The other major group along the coast are the Christian Wayoli, related to the Sahu to the south.
The most numerous and dominant ethnic group in Ibu however are the Christian Tabaru, who mostly live in the interior villages. Many Tabaru have also left Ibu and established villages further south in Halmahera.

Gunung Gamkonora

Gunung Gamkonora is the highest mountain in Halmahera, and it dominates the views over the coastal region of Ibu. It is also an active volcano, which is nevertheless quite easy to climb. See below for more on this climb.

Crater Lake

There is a small crater lake high up in the hills above the interior village o Tigosekawan.
Reaching it will involve some 2 kms of hiking on muddy tralis and crossing streams - you've been warned!

Climbing Gamkonora

Climbing Gunung Gamkonora is a highlight of a trip to Halmahera.
The best gateway is the village of Gamsungi, where you must report to the Kepala Desa, ask advice about volcanic activity and can arrange guides.
Locals strongly believe that if you don't follow proper channels of communication, misfortune will befall you on the mountain - at the very least by reaching the top in cloudy weather and not seeing anything.
The hike takes about 3-4 hours to reach the top. It starts in plantations, then enters rainforest rich in birdlife and flora, such as this beautiful orchid.

Towards the Peak

After the forest you enter dense grassland, eventually emerging on the slopes below the summit where lava keeps vegetation scarce.
This is a hard part as you can see how far the top is, but you can enjoy the views below each time you stop for rest.

The Views

From the top, you can look down towards the west coast of Halmahera across the canyons of lava from former eruptions. It is also wonderfully cool up there!

The Twin Peaks

Once up there, you will notice that the peak of Gamkonora is split into two.
Nestled between these "Twin Peaks" is a flat ground sometimes holding a lake, and of course the smoking crater itself.

The Crater

The crater itself in not very big - compared to others like Kiebesi on Makian - but it is usually so full of smoke that you can hardly look down into it. Beware of getting too close if the wind blows the smoke towards you!
This is the best shot I got of the sulphurous depths inside.

GABUS CEREMONY

Like the people of Ternate and Tidore, the Muslim Gamkonorans of Ibu also perform the amazing Gabus ritual on special occasions.
I was lucky enough to witness this in 2004, when it was held the night before I climbed Gunung Gamkonora.
It started at 9 pm, and involved many men playing distinctively Arabic-style, Islamic music on traditional instruments.
An old man in similarly Arab-style dress was sitting flanked by these musicians, and was obviously a respected religious expert chosen to lead the ceremony, which was interrupted with Quran-reading every now and then.
He also had two pairs of special daggers with him, which participants of the ceremony were receiving after paying their respects to him.

By Road

The typical way of reaching Ibu is taking a bemo (minibus) or shared taxi from Jailolo. These usually wait for passengers coming from Ternate by speedboat at the port of Jailolo and will leave as soon as they fill up.
There are also daily vehicles between Ibu and Tobelo across the peninsula - they go via Sidangoli.
Once in Ibu, public transport is very scarce - except on market days. There are a few bemos, but hiring an ojek (motorcycle taxi) is the easiest way to get around.

None!

As noted in the intro, there is no commercial accomodation in Ibu. As it is too far from Jailolo or Sahu for a day-trip, visitors without their own transport will have to arrange accommodation in a local home.
See my comments about "Staying in Villages" on my general Maluku Accommodation page!

Not Much...

Your only hope to find a warung to feed you is is Tengutesungi.