Elat

The main town of Kei Besar, Elat was (like Banda Ely on the east coast) originally established by native people of the Banda Islands fleeing the Dutch massacre in their homelands centuries ago. They still make up the majority of the population here, but as Elat became the capital of Kei Besar decades ago, it attracted people of various backgrounds and its Bandanesecharacter has become less obvious. It is the onlt placeon Kei Besar that has a few places to stay and eat, and is also the best coinnected gateway to the island, so most visitors will base themselves here.

South of Elat

The ethnically Keiese villages south of Elat are fine representatives of Kei Besar with many houses built on old stone foundations, old stone footpaths and staircases, and friendly people. You could just walk south of town taking in as many as you feel like, but if you are pressed for time and have to pick one, Bombay is one of the nicest.

Wair

North of Elat, up in the hills, the village of Wair may not look quite as interesting architecturally, but has an interesting megalithic-style woma (offering place) standing in its center. Next to the woma a cannon points at the new village church.

Pantai Daftel

Also north of Elat, on the west coast overlooking Kei Kecil, Daftel is a very nice, accessible white sand beach. Unfortunately, there is no accommodation here, but it is an easy and worthwhile outing from Elat.

Pulau Kelapa

Small "Coconut Island" in the bay right in front of Elat isanother tempting destination for a day-trip. The island has just one small Bandanese village, and several fine beaches. Great views of it can be had from the rutted shortcut road between Wair and Pantai Daftel.

Banda Ely

The main Bandanese settlement area on Kei Besar, Banda Ely is actually a cluster of several villages stretching for a few kilometres on the northeastern coast of the island. Thanks to its isolation, has preserved its traditional culture much better than Elat. The people here are some of Maluku's best crafsmen and women, with silver and ironswork, pottery, and woodcarving all produced in the villages.

Mosques in Banda Ely

The staunchly Muslim Bandanese have built several impressive mosques in their villages, usually in vaguely Indian style.

Cannons

Much valued in the Kei Islands as traditional heirlooms and bride price payment, fine, carved old cannons of supposedly Portuguese origin are mounted in front of several of the mosques. Actually they may not all be really old, as the craftsmen of Banda ely are known for being able to produce these now in sizes varying from 50 cm to the full version.

The Museum

Slated for opening in 2010, the fair-sized museum building standing on the hillside above the main mosque will supposedly exhibit Bandanese crafts and heirlooms. its construction was funded by the tourism office in Langgur, seemingly undeterreed by the fact that very few tourists ever actually visit Banda Ely!

Traditional Woodcarving

Several older houses in Banda Ely are decorated with fine old woodcarving in typically Islamic-Malay floral style inside.

Forest Walks

Northern Kei Besar has some of the finest and most accessible pristine rainforest in southern Maluku, blanketing most of the hills and even stretching down to the coast around the village of Kilwair. Birdwatchers and indeed anyone interested in nature will find this the most rewarding area in the Keis. It should also be possible to do interesting cross-island hikes from the east coast of Kei Besar to the west.

Bandanese Crafts

The people of Banda Ely produce the only crafts really worth buying in the Keis. Probably most portable is the traditional Keiese and Tanimbarese jewellery which they sell throughout SE Malukuy and as far away as western Papua. Less portable are the abovementioned cannons. Perhaps most interesting are the traditional Bandanese pots though. Unlike most pottery in Maluku which tends to be plain reddish in colour, the pots here are finely decorated with traditional geometric and floral design. Once widely traded in the Keis, with the coming of plastic buckets and bottles Banda Ely is now pretty much the only place to find and buy these.

Sasi

The traditional signs of resource protection, sasi symbols can actually be seen all over the Keis. In Kei Besar I have come across the most interesting example though, with a charming little stone statue standing guard at the back.

Maulid in Banda Ely

Islamic festivals are enthusiastically celebrated by the Bandanese in both Elat and Banda Ely. My visit coincided with the Prophet's birthday, commemorated with lots of traditional music and singing as well as communal feasting in Banda Ely's mosques.

By Sea

One large hydrofoil and several smaller speedboats run between Watdek in Langgur and Elat daily. There are also less frequent speedboats or wooden motor boats from Watdek to other villages on Kei Besar. About twice a week, one of the three Haar Indah motor boats runs from the harbour in Tual to Banda Ely via other villages around the northern tip of Kei Besar.

Within Kei Besar, speedboats and longboats travel every morning from various east coast villages to Yamtel, just across the hills from Elat. They return to their home villages after noon.

By Road

Kei Besar has some of the worst roads in Maluku, and while they fan out of Elat into maybe 4 directions, public transport is pretty much limited to minibuses to Yamtel. To other villages, they only operate on a charter basis. For solo travellers, hiringan ojek is the cheapest option - othyer than walking, of corse!

Walking

Many of Kei Besar's villages are still connected by old footpaths made of stone slabs that make for wonderfully atmospheric and scenic walking, especially along the east coast.

Homestays

Though one or two larger guesthouses seemed to be under construction in the southern part of Elat, for now the only accommodation is provided by 2 unmarked homestays close to the port. The better one described in the Lonely Planet guide is quite nice if a bit pricey, while those looking for a cheaper room should check out the more basic place next to the river (shown on this photo). Elsewhere on the island, including in Banda Ely, there is no formal accommodation.