Maluku Travel Information - Tanimbar Kei |
Tanimbar Kei: Stronghold of Keiese Traditions |
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The southernmost island in the Kei group, Tanimbar Kei is also the most traditional one by far. It is one of the few places in all Maluku where truly traditional-style native houses can still be seen, and where a good part of the population still follows the traditional religion (though they do call themselves "Hindu" for official purposes). As such, it is an intriguing destination for those interested in culture, but beach fans may find the island somewhat disappointing. |
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The Ladder
The old, traditional village of Tanimbar Kei is built on a hill, protected by its steep rocky slopes, and traditionally only accessible by climbing wooden ladders. These days, much of the populkation lives in the modern village by the seaside below, and a concrete flight of stairs has been built from the western side. Still, the most interesting way of reaching the old village is by climbing up the original way.
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The Gateway
At the top of the stairs, a finely carved wooden gateway welcomes you to the old village. It once had two carved wooden doors too, but one was stolen (and found its way to Ambon's Siwalima Museum) and the other was removed for safekeeping.
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The Upper Village
The upper village only has a few houses left, most of them still in traditional style. Most of the inhabitants are elderly, and the houses tend to be in pretty poor condition. Don't come expecting architetural marvels as in Tanatoraja or Lake Toba, but be aware that what you see is already a very rare thing in Maluku!
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Carvings
Several of the old houses are decorated with interesting traditional carvings on their doors or on the lower part of the walls. Most of these are geometric or floral designs, but some depict clan sybols.
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The Lighthouse
For a more modern attraction, hike across to the south coast of the island, where you will find a lighthouse. It is a well-built metal structure so it is both safe and worthwhile climbing up to the top for some great views.
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Beaches
Though Tanimbar Kei seems to be surrounded by great white sand beaches when seen from the air (eg flying from Saumlaki to Langgur), they tend to be less impressive once on the ground. While there are several longer beaches around the island, the finest one I found was the short stretch of sand a short distance west of the lighthouse.
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Chasms
Walking trails along the island's southern coast are sometimes interrupted by impressively long and deep chasms runningway inland from the sea. Enjoy the view, and then walk around them inland!
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Sorgum Fields
Tanimbar Kei's traditional staple food is not cassave as in thye rest of the Keis, but sorgum. This is still planted in a highly ritualized matter, with elaborate ceremonies. The harvested seeds can not be sold, just given away to outsiders!
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By Sea
Village boats travel between Tanimbar Kei and Kei Kecil's Debut village a few times every week unless the sea is too rough. They do not travel every day, and there is no real schedule, so you will just have to head for Debut and ask. They usually head back to Tanimbar Kei sometime after noon.
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Walking
Walking trails cross the island in all directions, though they can be indistinct and hard to follow on your own.
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There is no formal accommodation on Tanimbar Kei. Contact the kepala desa to find accommodation in a village home, and don't forget to pay your way! You could also try to stay (camp?) near the lighthouse to be in a quieter location close to the island's best beaches. |
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